New Orleans ’96
This was originally published on the web in spring 2001. Click on the photos to enlarge them, and to find links to additional photos from this set.
In August 1996, I took a solo trip to New Orleans. Although it was my first visit, I felt like I already knew the French Quarter and the Garden District, from reading Anne Rice novels—especially the Witching Hour series and The Feast of All Saints.
This trip was also a kind of personal coming out experience. Not that I did anything wild—I managed to miss Southern Decadence by a week—but it was a chance to explore a gay community on my own, far away from home. One hot afternoon, I stopped for a drink at a gay bar (Oz, shown here) and wrote coming out letters to a few of my old friends.
The first place I stayed, Lafitte Guest House (1003, rue de Bourbon) was charming and elegant: beautiful rooms with antique furniture; breakfast on a silver tray. I’ve been dying to return there for some special occasion. I stayed for three weeknights, as the weekend rate was a bit out of my price range. For the weekend, I moved to Ursuline Guest House (708, rue des Ursulines), which was comfortable but not nearly as elegant.
This post highlights the architecture, ambiance, and music of the French Quarter and adds a few scenes from the Garden District and Algiers Point, across the river.
During my trip, I walked the streets of the French Quarter day and night—I had most of the street names memorized! I loved the feel of the place, especially the painted houses, shutters, and balconies. New Orleans, especially the French Quarter, is one of the greatest places I’ve been to linger over a delicious meal, wander down to the river at dawn, or just sit in the park and watch the people. Bar-hopping is easier on Bourbon Street than anywhere else because each building has so many entry-ways (when all the storm shutters are open).
Great music is everywhere; linked here are pictures of just a few of the street musicians I ran across. There is always someone playing in front of Cafe du Monde, it seems.
“Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans
And miss it each night and day…“Miss the moss-covered vines, tall sugar pines
Where mockingbirds used to sing
I’d love to see that old lazy Mississippi
Running in the spring“Moonlight on the bayous
Creole tunes fill the air
I dream about magnolias in June
And I’m wishin’ I was there”
Twice, I took the streetcar to the Garden District. Mostly I stared longingly at the mansions, but a visit to Lafayette Cemetery was also a must. The Garden District Book Shop carries many autographed Anne Rice books.
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I also love New Orleans. I have been back there eight times in the last five years. I have over 200 photos and I just bought a picture for my living room. It is a magical place!
Your photographs are awesome. Good work.
My heart is in New Orleans. Loved your pictures.
Returning to New Orleans soon, love it, your photos are great.
My first trip to NO is coming up, loved your photos!
Your pictures helped me get an extra credit grade, in architecture. Thanks!
Beautiful photography: my New Orleans captured with all the richly wrought decadence of ages past, verdant and thriving still with the pulse of honest authentic cameos you’ve revealed in creole faces, an ironic contrast which lends intrigue to mundane, and look at this city which strives to lure you in and simultaneously cast you out.
You see it as though through mine own eyes… Did you ask of the children without tap-shoes how did they tap? This was asked in our vehicle as we passed. The children of New Orleans, street-smart and savvy, at least one of the hearing children reads lips and lifted his worn tennis shoe to show me the bottle caps.
HELP: on Bourbon St., in the Quarter, there are hot dog vendors with their own little carts owned by the same company. Can anybody tell me what that company is called? Thanks.
Lucky dogs.
You have a very good eye, keep taking those pictures.
I like your pictures, it really captures the spirit of the city. My dad lives there and i go there every summer. In fact, that old house with the blue truck parked to the side, my dad lives a couple houses down.
There’s no greater city in the states than New Orleans. I can’t visit it enough, and one day I intend to live there. It’s part of my soul, such a great place to be and to dream about when I can’t be.
I recently visited New Orleans and I fell in love with the city, its people, and its beautiful architecture. I plan on going back again soon, and often, and would love to someday live there. There was a moment one night, as my fiance and I were walking in the French Quarter, down Gov. Nicholls St., when I literally felt as if I’d been there before. As if I belonged there. It was a strange, haunting, yet very calming feeling. I just stopped and stood still for a moment and looked around. I’ll never forget it. Thanks for sharing your beautiful pictures with us. I’m glad I stumbled upon your site.
Truly a remarkable and historic city. The people, the food, the architecture, the antique shopping and the charm of the city is like no place else in the USA. I go to New Orleans every three months. Everyone should explore this great place.
Yes, “Nawlins” is the correct local venacular. N.O. is a unique city which you captured irridescently with your viewfinder. Keep taking wonderful images and stay close to people at night: N.O. is at the top of violent crime statistics. Peace out.
Nice photos of my favorite American city. Laissez les bon temps roullez.
Great pictures. New Orleans is a great city with an allure that captures people, even the locals, and is full of history. I live not far from the French Quarter and I think it’s the best place on Earth. I wouldn’t trade living anywhere else.
So glad to know that there are so many people out there that feel the same way I do about New Orleans. I have been there 5 times in the past 2 years, and can never get enough. I also long to live there even though I am told that I am crazy. I leave my heart in NOLA everytime, and am not my happiest until I am there again.
In response to your comments and photos of Algiers Point: what a shame that you did not take the time to include photos of the lovely homes that have been renovated and the wonderful feeling of a neighborhood from an era long gone. For a more accurate view visit algierspoint.org
Hello Prof. League: I want to first say I love your pictures of New Orleans. No one understands how much I love the city. I visited N.O. in the summer of 2003 for a wedding, not realizing beforehand that the city is very active all year round. I always thought the city becomes bland after the Mardi Gras season, so I didn’t have an agenda mapped out other than the wedding. I plan to visit again in 2005.
I really think New Orleans should take the title of “the city that never sleeps” because there are so many areas in NYC that begin to doze off at 11PM!
I live in Algiers Point. There is much to see if you know where to look. Founded in 1719, it’s one of the oldest neighborhoods in the area.
I love your pictures. They kind of make me homesick… but in a good way. I really miss living there. Glad you had a great time.
Dude, amazing web page! I stumbled across it searching for the dance group “Tap Kids.” Glad i stumbled on it, and by your description now i want to go to n’awlins. Hope all came out okay with your “coming out,” and hope you are finally happy. Thank you once again for your info and your awesome web page, and i am just wowed. Hello to all who read this post, and hope everyone is happy.
I love New Orleans… it is where I find my head and heart running to often. You feel so alive there even if you are just walking by the river. I would love to live there one day. Maybe when the kids are grown. I go every chance I get.
Leaving tonight for the borders of the French Quarter, not being able to be seduced by her old world charm and enchanted by her hotness of her heat… hope to see you all there. Ciao!
Lauren, it seems like you would have arrived in New Orleans just in time for Katrina! Hope you are okay.
I live so close to N.O. but never visited like I should have. After recent events I was searching for pictures of things that I may never see in person. Thanks so much for sharing.
I fell in love with New Orleans the first visit for Mardi Gras, 2002. Everyone asks me why I moved here from St. Augustine, FL. Once you get a place in your heart and soul, I don’t think it can be explained. The streetcars are running on Canal St. now, and it won’t be long before they are running on St. Charles again.
Viva New Orleans!
Just got back from MG ’06. It was a very emotional time for me. I had not visited NOLA for over a year. Having friends and family living there during “the storm” was a very difficult time. Reading your page I share some very close feelings with you. The picture of Oz is one of them. NOLA is great, possibly the most exciting, diverse, and great cities in America. Once you have been there you understand that it is something that must stay attached to the American way of life. I really enjoyed your pictures and stories!